While the Schönbrunn Palace (which I visited and wrote about on Tuesday) was the Hapsburg’s summer residence, the Hofburg was the imperial winter residence. Situated in the centre of Vienna, and not too far from our hotel, it was here that we set off to on Wednesday morning. Our visit to the Hofburg comprised of three main attractions: the Silver Collection (Silberkammer), the Sisi Museum and the Imperial Apartments (Kaiserappartments).
We entered through a large arch, that led to a dome shaped room with an ornate ceiling. From here, we arrived at the Silver Collection, which was the first of the three places that we explored. The Silver Collection contained extensive cases packed with different silver and gold objects, as well as ceramics and items made out of glass. The objects were all domestic and largely consisted of cutlery, crockery and tablewear. This vast collection dates back to the 15th century; the title of Silver Chamberlain was first recorded at the court of Emperors Frederick III and Maximilian I. However, whilst the collection was an undoubtedly interesting insight into the court culture that the Hapsburg’s enjoyed, to me the Silver Collection was not the most enthralling bit of the museum – it began to seem a bit repetitive after the first seven or eight rooms and, to be honest, a lot of the crockery was not too dissimilar to that which my grandma has on display in her living room.
Following on from the Silver Collection was the Sisi Museum, which was very interesting, especially as Empress Elisabeth (Sisi) is not a figure that I had previously known anything about. Elisabeth, who was married to her cousin Franz Joseph, was the Empress of Austria and Queen of Hungary between 1854 and 1898, when she was assassinated in Geneva aged 60. Through exploring the rooms of the museum, and listening to the commentary on the audio guide, I learnt a lot about the longest serving empress of Austria, who was noted for being both deeply beautiful and deeply unhappy, and desperate to be out of the scrutinising constraint of the public eye. The display contained many person items of the Empress, including fans, parasols and a couple of dresses.
From the Sisi Museum we entered the Imperial Apartments. As the Hofburg was the home of the Hapsburg’s for over 600 years, the palace was made up of numerous apartments belonging to different people. The apartments that we were able to explore were those belonging to Elisabeth and Frank Joseph, who we had just learnt about in the previous museum. Most of the furniture and designs can be dated to the 19th century, although there were some older pieces. Similarly to the Schönbrunn, there were many beautiful chandeliers in these rooms, as well as seemingly hundreds of decadent mirrors, which provided innumerable photo opportunities! After we had finished navigating through the many different rooms, we headed to the restaurant for lunch, before admiring the gardens.
After a short break spent back in the hotel, we walked to the Mozart Museum, Mozart Haus. The museum was quite small, although it was spread over three stories, and was set in an apartment that Mozart had rented for a number of years. Mozart himself was actually from Salzburg, thus the main collection of his things is not situated in Vienna. However, despite the small size of the museum, it was still very interesting and an enjoyable experience, particularly as the audio guide had masses of information. We stayed in the Mozart Museum for just over an hour, before heading to a nearby restaurant for dinner, for which I had a delicious couscous.
After dinner, we returned to the hotel to get ready, before rushing out to a concert at a 19th century music hall called the Kursalon. Here we listened to an orchestra play a number of pieces that were mainly composed by Mozart and Strauss. The performances included orchestral music, opera and even some dance. There were many famous pieces, for example from The Magic Flute and Einer Kleiner Nachtmusik. In addition, the venue itself was absolutely beautiful. The only negative – or rather hilarity – was that the woman sitting behind me decided that it was okay to sing along to the piano music! The concert finished at about half ten, at which point we returned to our hotel for the night.
On Thursday, we woke up relatively late in comparison to the early starts on the previous days. Once we were all ready, we set off to the main attraction of the day: Belvedere Palace. Whilst Belvedere compromises of several buildings, situated within the amazing gardens, it was the Upper Belvedere that we chose to explore. The building itself is a magnificent baroque palace, dating back to the early 1700s, and was the summer residence of Prince Eugine. We paused to admire the building’s exterior, as well as the garden – although we soon found out that the best view of the this came from the upstairs windows.
The inside of the Upper Belvedere consists of a fantastic art gallery, housing many famous works. This included the largest collection of Gustav Klimt’s artwork, including the world famous ‘The Kiss’ and ‘Judith’. We saw these paintings, as well as many others, on the first floor of the gallery, which was the main collection of modern art. The first floor also consisted of a number of beautiful rooms that were decorated and designed in much the same style as the other two palaces that we had visited: high white walls and ceilings, adorned with sparkling gold embellishments and vast in every mirrors. After we had finished admiring the artwork and interior of the first floor, we went to the restaurant for lunch, where I had yet another salad due to an impressive inability to eat literally anything else.
After lunch, we headed back into the Upper Belvedere, this time to explore the second floor. Whilst the first floor was dedicated to modern art, this floor was packed with impressionism and realism. The art was not limited solely to Austria artists, as there was pieces by Money, Renoir and Van Gogh as well. My favourite piece was a beautiful garden scene by Monet, who is probably my favourite artist. Also visable from the second floor were the amazing panoramic views of the garden, seen through the vast windows that created the bright, airy light in the gallery. Some of the windows had large windowsills attached to them and would certainly have provided some enviable window seats back when the Belvedere was a palace!
After spending the majority of the day at the Belvedere, we took a taxi back to our hotel for a short rest and to get out of the intense heat. In the evening we headed out for our final dinner in Vienna, which we had in a restaurant a few streets away from Stephanplatz, which is the main square where we have been eating at most nights. For dinner I had plain spaghetti once again, whilst my sisters had pasta, my mum had gnocchi and my dad had a pizza. After dinner, we went to a different restaurant (this time in Stephanplatz) and my parents and sister had dessert.
After dinner and desert, at around 9pm, we headed back to the hotel, full of pasta, strudel and excitement for the day ahead.
To read about my arrival and first full day in Vienna click here.